Burnt offerings

The old Banana Cafe, down Duval, had four great things going for it:

-- A clever chef (who also owned Mr. Z's, which survives, though Banana has peeled out.)

-- A great roof deck overlooking the street.

-- A good wine list cheap enough to drink.

-- Fantastic grilled meatloaf.

When I first saw it on the menu, I wondered why anyone would want to tamper with a classic. Then I tasted it and realized that refinement is not tampering: The grill adds those Maillard-reaction compounds that taste terrific but will probably contribute, along with so many other delectable things, to my premature demise.

So now I make meatloaf a day ahead, let it rest in the fridge and then slice and grill for more comfort than most food can muster. (And if you want the full Maillard, brush it with some barbecue sauce or ketchup or something else with sugar. It browns, baby.)